How does a relaxer work?
T ime for a really quick science lesson (keep reading, it
will be really quick and painless, I promise). There is a scale called a
pH scale. It ranges from 0-14. Water is right in the middle with a pH of
7 and is "neutral" (neither acidic or basic). Substances with higher pH
are called alkali, caustic or basic. Solutions with lower pH are called
acidic. The farther from the number 7 (either high or low), the more the
solution will do in terms of burning or breaking chemical bonds. The pH
scale is a logarithmic scale. What that means is a whole number
difference is greater than you might think. A solution that is pH 8 is
ten times more basic than a solution that is ph 7. One that is a pH 5 is
100 times more acidic than a pH 7. That's as far as we need to go for our
purposes. End of lesson. Relaxers, whether lye or no lye, have a very
high pH (very near the top of the scale). In other words, they are
caustic.
Relaxers work on the same principle as commercial products like Liquid
Plumr® that you'd buy to remove hair from your sink or drain.
Relaxers break the hair down. Relaxers work because they break the bonds
that actually give strength to the hair. This causes the hair to
straighten. Therefore, relaxed hair is, by definition, weaker than
natural hair. Relaxers also deplete the hair of sebum (the oil your scalp
secretes). Combine that with heat and you can really end up with a
problem. That's why it is of the utmost importance to be careful when
putting in relaxers and to give relaxed hair the best care possible.
Does this mean we are against relaxers? Absolutely
not. If a quality relaxer is applied properly and the hair is
maintained properly, your hair can definitely be healthy. However, your
hair will be weaker than if it were natural and will be more prone to
problems. These problems are not insurmountable as long as you are aware
of how to take care of your hair.
Many people have asked us why we don't sell relaxers. Our policy is that
we do not sell relaxers because we think they should be applied by a
professional in a salon setting.
Are no lye relaxers better and/or milder?
T here is a myth that no-lye relaxers take all the worry
out of straightening the hair. Pardon the pun, but that's a lie (lye).
No-lye relaxers are more gentle on the scalp. But, the FDA (Food &
Drug Administration) has received complaints of scalp irritation from
no-lye relaxers as well as lye relaxers. The same safety precautions
apply to both. Lye relaxers contain sodium hydroxide as the active
ingredient. With no-lye relaxers, calcium hydroxide and guanidine
carbonate are mixed to produce guanidine hydroxide. It's the hydroxide
that makes the relaxer reactive (basic) and the way they work is the
same. Many people have reported no-lye relaxers leave their hair more
dull and have gone back to lye relaxers. If you're having problems with
scalp irritation using a lye relaxer, you might want to try a no-lye
relaxer. But, don't believe that it's somehow more healthy for your
hair. Back to top
How about natural relaxers?
There are products on the market that call themselves "natural relaxers".
We have gotten many questions about them. After doing a lot of
research, we have finally found a natural relaxer we can sell with
confidence. That relaxer is the
Natural-Laxer PlusTM from Baka Beauty Products. However,
the term "relaxer", in this case, may be misleading. We think that may
be why the natural relaxers have gotten a bad rap.
The natural relaxer we sell is an all herbal hair treatment. It is kind
of an herbal texturizer. It is not a straightener. You simply
are not going to get kinky black hair to become bone straight in an "all
natural" way. What our relaxer does is gradually allow the natural curl
pattern to relax. This causes the hair to be less kinky and somewhat
straighter. It also makes the hair softer. Some interesting side
effects of this relaxer is that you end up with less tangles, less
breakage and the hair is actually strengthened and encouraged to grow by
the relaxer. The relaxer also helps prevent reversion of pressed hair.
The relaxer works with a cumulative effect. After the first
application or two, the differences will be subtle, but noticeable.
Over time, the relaxer makes the hair softer and softer. This is an
excellent treatment for damaged permed hair, an aid in transition from
perms to natural hair or a conditioner/detangler for natural
hair.
What do I look for in a stylist to put in
my relaxer?
F irst of all, find someone with hair you like and ask her
where she gets her hair done. If she lets you touch her hair, touch it
to make sure it's healthy (please ask first!). Talk to the stylist
before you make an appointment. Make sure she seems professional and
knows what she's doing. A bad perm is a horrible thing. You could end
up with damaged hair, bald or even permanently disfigured. And,
remember a perm is permanent. Mess one up and that hair is ruined
permanently (until you cut it off).
Before she begins:
- She should check the condition of your hair and
scalp before she begins. If your hair is weak or your scalp has any
cuts, scrapes or sores, she should not do the perm. A perm on
already weak hair can cause your hair to break off. A perm on a
scalp that is not healthy can be absorbed into the body and cause
problems.
- She should check for allergic reaction and test
the perm on a strand of your hair
- She should choose a perm appropriate for your
type of hair. Not all relaxers are the same. Some are more reactive
(stronger) than others.
The stylist should consider- whether your hair has been relaxed
before (touch up or retouch), whether your hair has never been
relaxed (virgin), whether your hair is colored and whether your hair
is fine or coarse.
- She should protect your skin (and clothes) with a
cape and or a towel
- She should protect your scalp with a jelly or
thick cream
Once she begins:
- Once the stylist starts applying your perm, she
should pay attention to your head and not talking on the phone,
taking lunch breaks or attending to other clients. Applying a perm
requires her complete attention.
She should work quickly to avoid over-relaxing your hair and/or
burning your skin.
- Retouches should only be done on new growth.
This is a common mistake people make when putting in perms at home.
I know I used to. Do not keep relaxing the ends of your
hair over and over again.
- Your stylist should use a timer (and pay
attention to the timer). It's always better to leave the hair a
little underdone than overdone. Even with the timer, she should
check your hair continuously.
After she's done:
- She should rinse your hair very well with warm
water.
- She should wash your hair with a neutralizing
shampoo. It's important to use a shampoo with a lower
pH to neutralize the high pH of the relaxer. The reason this is
important is the pH of the neutralizing shampoo stops the reaction
of the lye.
Using a regular shampoo will allow your hair to continue to break
down beyond the point where you want it to be.
- She should rinse your hair again.
- Before it is dried, she should deep condition the
hair
- She should handle your hair gently as she's
drying and styling it.
Can I remove a relaxer from my hair?
If you've read this far, you probably already realize
the answer is "no". Permanents are called permanent for good reason.
The bonds in the hair are destroyed when the hair is relaxed. The
part of the hair that has been relaxed will never be "natural" again.
The only way to get rid of
relaxed hair is to cut it off or wait for it to break off. Waiting
for the hair to break off is not a good transition option.
But, some women choose it because they are uncomfortable giving up the
length they've worked hard to get. There are ways to transition
from relaxed hair to natural hair. But, the relaxed hair will never
be natural again.
What is my hair type?
Y ou may ask "Why should I care?" Well, mostly you
shouldn't. But, knowing your hair type will allow you talk with
others and research products,
styles and regimens that are best for your particular hair. There are
controversies surrounding hair type methodologies that use works like
kinky,
nappy and other words that have less than positive connotations for
some people. Others that use numbers, tend to lump all
African American hair into one big category. There is a system called
LOIS that uses the hair shape as the defining hair "type".
For more on LOIS, see
http://www.ourhair.net/hairtype.htm Until many people switch over
to the LOIS system, there is the numbering
system by Andre Walker. That is described at the same web-site.
What are the hair care basics?
You should picture your hair as a collection of fine
fibers. You should treat it as gently as you would a fine washable
silk blouse.
The better you treat your hair, the easier it will be to grow and the
better it will look. African hair will tend to be dryer and more prone
to breakage
because the structure makes it more difficult for the oils to work
their way from the scalp to the ends of the hair. If you relax your
hair,
you've weakened the hair and reduced the ability for the scalp to
naturally oil it. The points where the hair curls and twists are also
points
where the hair tends to break. The more of these points (as in
African hair), the more the hair is prone to breakage. Also, because
our hair is kinky,
it tends to tangle more and pulling these tangles out can cause
breakage.
- Either section the hair and plait it, tie it back
or wrap it up using a scarf (we sell a mesh one specifically for
this) before going to bed, this will reduce the number of tangles you
have to comb out the next morning, reducing the chances of breaking
your hair. We have a fairly
large selection of things to wear while you're sleeping.
- Sleep with a satin scarf or sleep cap on your your
head or with a satin pillow case. This helps avoid split ends caused
by the rubbing
of your hair against a "rough" cotton pillow case.
- Wash your hair no more often than every week to
week and a half. More than that can dry it out.
- Comb your hair out while you're conditioning it to
remove the tangles while it's wet and relatively slick.
- Oil your scalp on a regular basis with a good
natural oil like shea butter. A daily moisturizer is not a bad
idea.
- Do a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment once a
month.
- Massage your scalp on a regular basis to promote
circulation and oil production.
- Avoid overuse of products with mineral oil or
petroleum. They tend to block the pores and are not readily absorbed.
If your mother used Vaseline® on your hair, stop.
- If you exercise and sweat, rinse the salt out of
your hair even if you don't wash it. Condition it afterwards with a
daily leave-in conditioner.
- Always use a leave-in conditioner after washing
your hair.
- Put as little heat as possible on your hair. Heat,
especially combined with perms is very damaging to hair.
- Avoid alcohol based products unless you have a need
for a water-free shampoo to cleanse your scalp (for example while
you're
waiting for your locks to lock).
- Remember that water (moisture) is your friend and
get plenty- inside and out. If you used to press your hair or blow
it out and learned to
fear water on your hair because it would draw up, you need to get over
this. Spritzing a little water on your hair every day is a good idea.
Get a spray bottle and just spray it just a little.
- Eat a proper diet. Vitamins and protein are
essential for proper hair growth. We have nutritional supplements
specifically designed for
hair and skin health.
Hair Growth Supplements
- Find a style that works with your natural hair type
and growth pattern. The less you work against your hair, the less
stressed it will be.
- Do not relax your hair until it is bone
straight. This is just asking for trouble. Why relax your hair until
it has absolutely no body or curl and then put heat on it to try to
get that curl back?
Some tools you should have in your kit
- A good shampoo: They will be more expensive. But,
they'll use more gentle cleansers and be more concentrated.
- You may find they save you money in the long run.
And, your hair will definitely show the difference. We offer
several.
- A good acidifier (a conditioner with a low pH):
Acidifying the hair adds shine and detangles.
- A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner: It
is an all natural based shea butter treatment. Apply the conditioner
or hot oil treatment to the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap
and sit under a dryer for 15-20 minutes. Alternatively, you can wrap
your head in a towel.
Then wash the hair thoroughly. This is very important for for dry
brittle hair. We have several here:
Hair Repair Products
- A good leave in conditioner or daily moisturizer:
This is what you'll put on your hair after you've thoroughly cleaned
it to continue
to provide oil and moisture.
- A comb for your hair type. Don't try to drag one
of those skinny toothed combs through your natural kinky or curly
hair.
You'll just end up pulling it out and breaking it off.
- A good boar bristle brush (use sparingly though)
- A spray bottle to mist your hair
- A scarf, cap, or wrap to wear on your head at
night- or a satin pillow case (well, two)
How do I deep condition my hair?
A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner is
essential.
Hair Repair Products Apply the conditioner or hot oil treatment
to the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap and sit under a
dryer for 15-20 minutes. Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a
towel. Then wash the hair thoroughly. This is very important for
for dry brittle hair.
Which oils should I use (and avoid)?
Oils, pomades, daily moisturizers, leave-in
conditioner and creams will make the hair feel more soft and
flexible. They are particularly important to be added to permed
hair which has been stripped of some of its ability to oil itself.
Mineral oil and petroleum use should be minimized or avoided.
These products can tend to clog the pores, are not easily absorbed
into the hair and attract dust. If you use products with these
oils, try to use the ones that have the least amount. Generally,
the further down the ingredient list, the less there will be in a
product. So, try to use products where these are listed near the
end.
Some natural oils to try are shea butter, jojoba oil,
olive oil, and sunflower oil. We have a great selection of
oils,
pomades and moisturizers
for every hair type and style.
Oils are best applied to wet hair to help hold in the
moisture already there. Creams or leave-in conditioners can be used
on days when you don't
wash or wet your hair. The type of oil or cream you use in your
hair is going to depend on your hair type and may take a little it
of
experimenting to find what works best for you. Also, the time of
year and your hair's exposure to the elements will vary your
routine.
How often should I wash my hair?
This will depend on your hair type and how prone
your hair is to drying or becoming oily. As we said earlier, not
all African Americans have the same type of hair. Generally
speaking, our hair tends to be dry and shampooing too often will
worsen that. Rinsing your hair with plain water every day and
washing once every week to ten days works for most of us.
Bi-racial people may want to wash their hair more often as it may
tend to be more oily. BTW, when you dry your hair, do not rub it.
Rubbing your hair can cause breakage. Blot it with a towel.
How do I handle natural hair?
If you have super curly, kinky or (dare we say it?)
nappy hair, your hair is best handled wet. You may find it
easiest to comb it with a wide tooth comb while in the shower.
Give up on that skinny little European comb and get one made for
your hair. Try to avoid combing your hair while dry as the comb
will tend to catch and break the hair. If you need to comb your
hair while it's dry, be gentle. Try to spritz with some water or
a cream first.
You can use an unbraid product like Black Earth's Protective Mist
Bodifier or Better Braids Unbraid. If you're unbraiding your
hair and
get to some tangles, pull them loose with your fingers before you
go on combing. Other than this, follow the basic guidelines
above.
Why is my natural hair so dull looking?
This is a question we get quite often. First, we
need to set some expectations. With the obvious caveats about how
we all have different hair types due to our diverse ancestries,
Natural African hair is going to appear more dull than Caucasian
hair or even permed hair. It's just the structure of our hair.
Our cuticles on our hair, because of the curvature do not lay
flat. Flat cuticles reflect light better making that hair appear
shinier.
If you try to make your hair shine like someone with permed hair
or a White person, you're going to end up making a mess of your
hair.
Having said that, we can make our natural hair look very healthy.
There are two things that many of don't get enough of on our
hair- Water and Oil.
Make sure you are drinking plenty of fluids and wash your hair
often enough (as described elsewhere in this paper). Make sure
you are oiling your
hair with good, natural oils that the hair can absorb. Too much
of the wrong kind of oils, can actually damage the ability of the
hair to absorb moisture
and make the hair appear even more dull. Natural African hair is
beautiful. But, it must be maintained properly to be and appear
healthy.
How do I handle permed hair?
First of all, make sure you have a good stylist.
If you do apply your perm at home (which we do not encourage),
be sure you follow the directions religiously. Make sure you
apply touch ups only to new growth. Do not overlap the the perm
on to the already permed hair. Follow the general directions
for hair care above.
Now...
- Dry your hair slowly and with as little
heat as possible. I try to allow a couple of hours to wash
my hair. I wash it and towel blot it. I apply a hair and
scalp oil. Then, I walk around the house for a couple of
hours and let it air dry as much as possible. Finally, I
blow it dry the rest of the way and begin my conditioning
and styling routine.
- Wet your hair as much as possible (at
least twice a week). Spritz it with water daily or rinse it
in the shower every day or two.
- Use a leave-in conditioner and/or
moisturizing pomade. Again, this is especially important
for relaxed hair as you've stripped the hair of some of its
ability to oil itself and its protection against moisture
loss.
- Have your hair trimmed on a regular basis
(whenever you have a perm applied). If your ends split,
this split can travel along the hair shaft causing damage to
the hair further up. Don't hang on to damaged hair for the
sake of its length. If your hair has been damaged by a bad
perm or general abuse, trim it back and let the healthy hair
grow out to make up for it. Keeping the damaged hair around
can actually begin to damage the healthy hair.
- Touch up frequency will vary depending
on your hair type and how fast it grows. I need to go
pretty often. Two to three months is fairly normal.
Should I go permed or natural?
Y ou didn't really think we were going to answer
this one. Did you? This is one of the hottest debates I've run
across in years. Our job is to inform you and let you make the
best decision for yourself. There are pros and cons to each.
This is a highly personal decision. Don't go natural to please
those sisters who think all women who wear perms are selling out to the
white man and have low self esteem. Don't wear a perm because
you feel that going natural is a political statement that you
don't want to make. Having said that, the reality is that if
you go natural, some people
will assume certain things about your political and social
points of view. If you wear a perm, some people will think you
have low self esteem.
Permed or Relaxed
- Generally the norm in the U.S.
- Easy to style the hair
- Hard on the hair- works by actually
breaking the hair down
- Require diligent care to keep the hair
healthy
Natural
- Back to nature
- Some do it for religious reasons (locks)
or political reasons- you may be lumped into this category
by strangers
- Have cost some people jobs- a man was
fired for wearing locks (upheld in court). A woman was
fired for wearing two-strand twists.
- May require greater self esteem to put up
with the looks and comments
- Better for the hair
- Easier to maintain
- Less styling options (debatable)
How do I transition from relaxed
to natural hair?
This one is a very frequently asked question. We
get calls and e-mails from people hoping we can tell them what
they want to hear. The true answer is there is no really quick
or easy way. To reiterate (in case you haven't read the other
questions). A relaxer is permanent. It cannot be removed.
There are no products that will remove a relaxer (other than
scissors). If you want to just grow your hair out to a natural
state, be prepared for breakage. Baka Beautiful's
Natural-Laxer Plus is a great product if you want to
maintain your length while transitioning.
We cannot guarantee there will be no breakage. But, the
Natural-Laxer can definitely help minimize it. There are three
good ways to transition:
- Cut off the relaxed hair-
depending on how much new growth and your preferences you have a
few styling options. You can wear
a TWA (tweeny weeny afro) or two strand twists pretty easily
with almost any length hair. For other styling ideas,
see
http://www.ourhair.net or
http://www.hairweb.com
- Braids and/or extensions-
you can have your hair braided until it grows to a length where
you feel comfortable cutting off the new growth
and going with other styling options
- SisterlocksTM-
SisterLocks can be started with one and one half inches of new
growth at the scalp. They are similar to dread locks but with a
look more like micro braids or very small twists. They leave
you with many styling options.
For more information (including pictures) go to
http://www.sisterlocks.com
- Find a transition style-
This great tip was given to us by one of our customers. "I just
wanted to send you another hair styling option for
those who don't know what to do while growing out a perm and
going natural. I recently did this and when my roots began
growing out, I would wet
my hair and add oil to it, then braid it while it was wet (Black Earth's
Crinkles & Curls Styling Lotion would be perfect for this).
After it dried,
my hair was left wavy and with lots of texture and this helped
to blend the natural roots with the permed ends. It is important
to keep your
ends clipped regularly
during this process so that your split ends do not continue up
the hair shaft and damage the natural hair.
I was able to wear my hair like this until I was comfortable
with cutting all of my permed hair off and wearing my 'fro."
(thanks Sheena!)
Trying to transition in other ways, like pressing
the natural hair as it grows in underneath the relaxed hair, are
going to make your hair prone to breakage and can damage the
natural hair you're trying to grow in. We do not recommend it.
While transitioning, try to find a style that will accomodate
the new growth coming in like twists or braids.
Is there a pill to fix my hair
problems?
The short answer is "no". Well, actually, the
answer is "yes and no". Proper nutrition is essential for the
health of your hair and protein is necessary.
We do offer supplements that can help with the health of your hair and
skin.
Hair Growth Supplements
However, there is no pill that
will overcome the damage you do to you hair by not properly
maintaining it. Taking proper care of your hair is the only
way to ensure it will remain healthy. There is nothing you can
put in your mouth or put on your hair to make it begin growing
like a chia pet (at least nothing that you'd really
want in your body or on your hair). The way to fix your hair
problems is the old fashioned way "Earn it". You've got to
develop a healthy
regimen for your hair and stick to it.
Is there something that will make
my hair grow really fast?
T here are medications that will make your hair
grow. For men, there is Minoxidil (aka Rogaine®) and Propecia®.
For women, there is Rogaine.
There are also supplements that can help with hair growth (see
the link above for our Hair Growth Supplements). If your hair
is damaged,
your nutrition is not optimal (and whose is?) or you have a
scalp condition there are things that can promote normal hair
growth that will make
it appear your hair is growing faster. Also, if you hair is
breaking off, it will appear that it is not growing. By
preventing that breakage, your hair
will become longer. Before you run out and buy a super pill or
an ointment, make sure you're doing the day-to-day things to
give your hair a
chance to grow on its own.
Our
Treasured Locks H2G Hair Growth Serum is a topical (you rub
it on your scalp) product that can help with hair growth.
Our hair growth oil is a carefully selected blend of Emu Oil,
Shea Butter Oil and other plant oils along with some Essential
Oils that have
been clinically shown to improve circulation, provide moisture,
reduce inflammation and help hair grow to its fullest
potential.
How do I care for my child's hair?
The same basic principles apply. Find a good
children's shampoo if your child is very young (so that it won't
burn the eyes).
However, as soon as you can, move away from these. They tend to
be drying for African American hair. I recommend avoiding perms
for as long as possible. Children have more sensitive skin than
adults. The chemicals in the perms are more likely to damage
their skin and hair.
Also, they don't usually have the patience to sit through the
process of getting the perm. My stylist told me the story of a
three year old girl
she was trying to give a perm. Once the perm was in, the child
decided she was ready to leave. The stylist had to literally
wrestle the child to
rinse the perm out of her hair. My older daughter is almost six now and
has very thick and coarse hair. Her hair is natural. I did a
lot of research on the best way to care for it (one of the
things that motivated me to open this store). I intend to leave
her hair natural as long as possible.
It's really not any more difficult to care for than if she had
a perm. We use the natural relaxer on her hair to make it more
manageable (not straight).
That and just using the basic tips above have made caring for
her natural hair much easier, she has less breakage and tangles
than she used
to and we love the way her hair looks natural.
Should I use only "natural"
products?
First of all, natural is a relative term. Once
you mix two ingredients together, one could argue the product is
not "all natural". We believe that
God put many wonderful things on this earth to take care of our
bodies inside and out. Generally, speaking the less refined or
manipulated a
product the better. However, we also believe God gave man the
ability to improve on his environment and some chemical
formulations
(especially medicines) are extremely beneficial. We promote
products that we believe are healthy for your hair. All things
being equal,
we prefer natural products over highly refined products. Even
when man tries to recreate nature by manufacturing or refining
products
(as in the case of multivitamins versus fresh fruits or
vegetables) he often damages the delicate trace substances in or
leaves things out.
However, all natural products will be less stable, may not look
as nice, will be more expensive and will have shorter shelf
lives than less natural products.
If you like a lot of lather, you may be disappointed with all natural
shampoos. So, the decision is really up to you. We use both
all natural product
and less natural products.
What is Shea Butter?
We're glad you asked. Shea Butter is a natural
moisturizer derived from the nut of a tree (the Karite tree)
that grows exclusively in West Africa.
It is highly prized for its benefits to both hair and skin. It
can treat a variety of skin conditions including eczema,
psoriasis, dry skin, stretch marks, etc.
I personally have used it to eliminate an allergic reaction to
the sun I've had for the past 10 years or so (every summer). My
sister-in-law and
another friend (with different sun sensitivities) have
experiences the same thing. Shea Butter is easily absorbed into
the hair and skin and
can be used on the face also (it's non-greasy). For more
details, see
http://www.treasuredlocks.com/shebutben.html
How can I re-grow lost hair?
T hat depends on how and why you lost your hair.
It's easier for us to tell you what not to do than what
to do. Do not go for any "miracle" cures.
Anything that claims it can grow hair on a cue ball should be
avoided. Our
Hair Growth Supplements are very effective for a variety of
types of hair loss.
But, they will not cure all baldness. Minoxidil has been shown
to be effective for women with a certain type of hair loss. If
you think you need Minoxidil,
you should see your doctor.
If you're a male an have lost your hair due to the natural aging
process, please do not spend tons of money on things that don't
work.
There are only two medically proven treatments. One is
Finasteride (aka Propecia). Propecia is a blood pressure
medication that has
the side effect of growing hair. The other is Minoxidil. Both work in
about 30-40% of cases and both only work on what is called male
pattern baldness (thinning from the crown of the head). Minoxidil has
worked, in combination with other treatments, on frontal
balding.
But, not often enough for the FDA to allow the manufacturer to
make the claim. Both drugs must be taken forever, to continue
to be effective.
Any gains made by the drugs will go away within a few weeks if
they are discontinued. Propecia has been known to cause sexual
dysfunction in a small number of patients. Minoxidil has been
known to cause scalp irritation. Minoxidil must be applied
every day
(two times/day is better) directly to the scalp and massaged in.
Due to the hassle, cost, possible side effects and limited
effectiveness of
both drugs whether you take them is a personal choice. If you
ever see my husband, you'll see he opted to let nature take its
course.
Information and permission provided by Brian at
Treasuredlocks
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